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January 22, 2001

Cape Town

We're down in Cape Town today, and the weather is beautiful. The flight down from London was pretty long at 13 hours, and it left from terminal 2 in Heathrow, which must be a sad sight for anyone arriving in Britain. It was fairly uneventful, but I guess that's how you want flights to be! In the morning we arrived in Johannesburg, and took the shuttle bus straight to Pretoria as we'd been warned that central Jo'burg is a very dangerous place to go into. We spent the first night there, and had a lovely cheap meal with some South African wine in a good restaurant.

The next day we packed up and took the 20 hour coach trip down to Cape Town. Neither of us have really been in Africa before, apart from a day or two I spent in Tunisia once, and we were both hypnotised by what was outside the window. The landscapes are huge and the horizon seems so far away that it's surreal. Exactly how you expect it to look really, with a land that goes on forever. At one point I looked away for a second and Nina quickly nudged me to point out a field full of ostriches. When I woke in the morning, the sun was rising over the Karoo (the South African desert), and then suddenly it changed into lush, green vineyards.

Yesterday we took a trip over to Robbin Island, and saw the prison where Nelson Mandela was imprisoned which lies about 11km south of Cape Town, and today we hope to take a trip up to the top of Table Mountain.

January 24, 2001

Around Cape Town

On Monday we took the cable car to the top of Table Mountain after having another truly wonderful meal, this time in an Italian restaurant. The cable car was technically the best I'd been on, with a revolving floor so that no-one could hog the best view. The view from the top was incredible, and we walked around some of the trails before retiring to the summit bar and watching the sunset. After our trip back down, the taxis at the bottom tried to rip us off, but Nina expertly got us a lift back into town from a couple from Edinburgh who were on a 6 week round the world trip.

Yesterday we rented a car, and drove out to exclusive Camps Bay for breakfast by the sea. We then continued south until I realised that I had lost my phone. So we rallied along the cliff-side road back to Cape Town, but couldn't find it in our room or anywhere. Expensively, we called the mobile network in Denmark, and closed the account. At least no-one else could use it now. We got back into the car to continue our day trip, and of course I found it wedged under my seat belt fixing!

Once we finally, got back to where we'd been before that episode, and after lots of laughing from Nina, we continued to Boulders Beach, where there is a growing colony of threatened African Penguins. It's a truly fantastic experience to watch them, and a trip there is essential if in the area. Next we moved onto the Cape Peninsula National Park which stretches down to and includes the Cape of Good Hope. It and the penguin reserve are at cpnp.co.za

After two minutes in the park, we stopped to watch wild baboons by the side of the road. Then as we continued down to the cape, we passed ostriches, bontebok, and made lots of stops for crossing tortoises! The Cape itself was truly impressive, towering up above the sea lanes. Not something you want to try sailing around with the wind against you!

Stellenbosch

We're in an internet cafe in Stellenboch right now after being to two vineyards for extensive winetasting this afternoon, so forgive the spelling mistakes. Boschendal Vineyards Neethlingshof Vineyards We're just waiting for happy hour to begin in the bar upstairs where drinks are 5 Rand (approx 45pence) & we're meeting one of the guys from the vineyard. We spent this morning in Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which are allegedly the most impressive botanical gardens in Africa. We were impressed. We do like South Africa so far, especially with the price of the drinks! How will we get home to Cape Town tonight though?

January 26, 2001

Cape Agulhas

Well I was going to tell you how safe and crime free South Africa is today, but we got up this morning to find that someone had broken into our rental car overnight! I'm sure that it was because it was parked right in front of the hostel and it's obviously a rental car. They didn't even bother stealing the stereo, they just smashed the window and looked in the boot to see if we had any luggage worth stealing. It doesn't really matter to us as we were returning it this morning anyway, and we had nothing at all in it.

On Wednesday night, we ended up coming baack to Cape Town with our new found chums, and going to a bar here. I was really beginning to wonder why there were only men in the bar, when I realised that it was a gay bar. Yes, the two guys we had met were a couple! We moved onto a club, and passed a very empty gay bar, which we were told had been bombed the previous month, and hence no-one really wanted to go to it anymore. The club we went to turned out to be very like the 'Blue Oyster Bar', with lots of people who looked like they were in Village People, but sadly the club didn't play any of their songs. I was very glad that Nina was with me!

Yesterday, Nina was quite hungover for most of the day, but she had been seriously partying! We drove along cliffside coastal roads past beautiful white sand beaches with waves crashing onto them to a town called Hermanus. It's main claim to fame is that Southern Right Whales come into it's bay to calve between June and September, so of course none were there now. The town's new claim is that Nina finally managed to find herself a new bikini there after searching for one on three continents! Needless to say, our next stop was the beach, and we went for a swim in the Indian Ocean. It was seriously windy though, and sand was flying as we made our way out into the green, crashing waves.

We continued driving down the coast to make a stop at the lighthouse at Cape Agulhas, the most southern point of Africa. It's quite a windbeaten, barren place; a bit like parts of Scotland, but it also seems to be attracting a new fashionable crowd. The coast road was lined with lots of new, trendily designed houses which seemed to be springing up everywhere.

Today, we're spending the day in Cape Town, and taking in some of the sights as well as hoping to organise our trip back up to Johannesburg this weekend.

January 27, 2001

Yesterday Nina & I took

Yesterday Nina & I took a trip to a diamond cutting factory, and were given a beginner's intoduction to DIY diamond cutting. Jewelafrica.com
It was very interesting, and really one of the things we wanted to see while we were down here. We had brunch in a cafe close to the hostel we're staying in, and it reminded me of the worst things about staying in youth hostels - other backpackers. Maybe it was just that this particular cafe had more than it's fair share of the Bill and Ted stereotype, or maybe I need to start working again and staying in proper hotels.

It's quite interesting sometimes in South Africa. The other day we walked into a restaurant, and as in many of them, you have to undergo a bodysearch with a metal detector. As I stepped in, the security guard politely asked me if I had my gun with me today. Also, when we took a boat trip out to Robben Island, a sign asked passengers to leave their handguns in the company's safe as they were not allowed on board the ferry.

Today we've just come from having lunch in a cafe in town. I had ostrich, but surprisingly it's a dark meat, not like chicken at all! They're farmed here so I don't mind eating it, but I've avoided having shark and crocodile as I think they should be left to roam the wild in peace. We sat inside as we were well aware that street kids might come over and beg from us if we sat at the tables out front, but it isn't too bad as the cafes have security guards to keep any undesirables away from the patrons. Even still, we sat and watched as a drunk repeatedly tried to beg from the tables at a cafe across the street and the guard had to chase him off each time. Of course all of the cafes in Cape Town aren't like this, but obviously the one's where tourists eat get plenty of attention.

July 29, 2001

Singapore

Finally the rain cleared yesterday and we set off with great intentions of finding the aforementioned campsite. After several hours, many buses, and a great deal of walking, however, we instead found ourselves lost in Singapore's suburbia as darkness fell. Rested and refreshed we set off again this morning, and after riding to the centre of the island on the metro, we sweated and dragged ourselves through 34 degrees of heat for half an hour until we reached the beach. One of the great things about the country is that English is the primary language (before Malay, Mandarin and Tamil, or so I'm told), but unfortunately no-one outside the centre of the city seems to understand it. We asked for directions but only received confused looks until finally we resorted to making boy scout signs and playing out the erection of a tent in mime to confused locals in our attempts to be understood. In the end we found a place that rented out bikes and we decided that this may be our only chance of finding if the campsite really existed. On Nina's suggestion, I must point out, we rented a tandem and set off. Now, contrary to popular opinion I can now tell you that there is nothing romantic about sharing a tandem with anyone. It's a bit like two people trying to drive a car at the seem time. Once we'd managed to balance ourselves at the same time in order to set off, we proceeded to wobble and swerve our way down the cycle path narrowly avoiding small children and dogs while we each blamed the suicidal progress on the other. We'd been told that there were almost endless paths in Singapore on which to cycle, but, obviously used to being in bigger countries, we pedalled until we quickly found ourselves on a main road and soon after at the international airport. But still no campsite. We turned around and took the bike back to the guy we rented it from, who will have to get it surgically removed should he wish to rent it out to anyone else, and vowed never to get on a tandem again.

Here's an interesting link for anyone with some spare time on their hands who fancies building a jet powered beer cooler in their shed.

November 3, 2001

Waiting in Heathrow

We've been here in Heathrow airport for hours as we were told that due to increased security procedures we had to check in 3 hours before. Well, there was no extra security that we could see but the airport is packed as everyone sits around for hours waiting for their flights. On top of that we've just seen that our flight is delayed so who knows how long we might be here.

From the Plane

We're finally on the plane now & about 50% of the passengers are buddhists with shaved heads. Not many muslims though. As it's Icelandair, everyone has skiis under their seats instead of lifejackets. Now what's this they're saying about turning off electrical appliances..?

November 9, 2001

Back on Zamindar

We're now at the boat in Titusville, Florida and she seems to fine after being left alone here for so long.

November 15, 2001

Recap of China

Although it happened a month ago, here is the posting of the remainder of my journal from China.

We caught a minibus out of Beijing towards the Great Wall, but as so often happens in China, we later discovered that we'd been ripped off, and they had demanded five times the normal fare from us. The bus stank of exhaust fumes, but we soon realised that it wasn't coming from the other traffic but seeping up through the floor. Part of the exhaust pipe was obviously cracked and leaking directly into the bus - we looked around to see all the other passengers asleep! Nina and I tried to get some air through the window and opened it as wide as we could so that we could breathe through it. After what seemed like an eternity, we were relieved to get to the mountains where the Great Wall was, and we set off to hike up to it. We'd chosen to go to the section at Simatei, which, although harder to get to, is less touristed, and stretches across steep-sided mountains. It was truly impressive, and we spent several hours walking a section of the wall as it climbed up the mountainside, sometimes at a 70 degree incline. We caught a minibus returning to Beijing in the evening, and were given a truly frightening display of Chinese driving. Perhaps because there are so many of them, the Chinese hate to be behind anyone else, and so will fight to push onto a train first and run to an available seat before you. This also means that they are unable to sit behind another vehicle on the road and will immediately pull out to overtake even if there's another car coming or they are going around a bend. We had several near misses on our way back to Beijing, and on some occasions the oncoming traffic was forced to stop to avoid hitting us. Very few bicycles in China have lights fitted, but they still cycle them across the dual carriageway in front of cars in complete darkness. We passed a total of five accidents, which included a flattened cyclist and a bus which had driven into a crane that had been parked on the road.

When we got back to the hotel we opened our room to find it full of gas. Of course, we went downstairs and told reception (eventually, as we had trouble with the sign language for 'gas' and our guidebook didn't list the Mandarin for, "Our room is about to explode"). They came up immediately, failed to find the leak, and so opened the window, turned the extractor fan on, and told us that would sort it out. They initially thought that we were being unreasonable when we asked for another room, but eventually they did agree.

Many of the children in China wear trousers with an open slit in them, traditionally so that they could relieve themselves while their parents worked in the fields. Unfortunately, this isn't such an ingenious solution in a busy city such as Beijing where children suddenly stop to shit on a busy pavement, but it seems to be generally accepted. On the train to X'ian, Nina walked into another carriage to find a father supporting his child on the sink while it shitted into the waste bin on the floor.

We were lucky enough to be staying in a hotel called Redhouse with satellite tv (as well as the gas) in Beijing, and watched the US/UK strikes against Afghanistan on BBC World. Militant groups in Indonesia had been searching hotels for Americans, and British nationals were being advised to leave the country. With the hostility that we had experienced while we had been in Indonesia, I could imagine it and I was glad that we weren't still there. Seeing that many Islamic countries had started to demonstrate, and we were about to travel to a predominately Islamic area of China, we thought it a good idea to contact the British embassy in Beijing to find out if the travel advisories for British citizens in China had changed since the attacks. Unfortunately, however, they only seem to be employing Chinese to answer the embassy phones, and their grasp of English is not too good. I asked about travel in China since the attacks, but they replied, "Tax?", and put me through to an answering machine that I could leave a tax question on. I tried again, and this time they put me through to recorded information on how to get a visa to visit Britain. Finally, I gave up, thankful that I didn't need their help for something like a lost passport.

Iceland

Everyone looked surprised as our plane flew over Iceland and we saw the snow-covered ground below. Although it was the beginning of November, no-one's thoughts had turned to snow yet and most of the clothes that Nina and I had with us were more apt for a Florida winter than an Icelandic one. It was exciting to walk out of the airport into the snow, as we caught the coach into Reykjavik.

We were only in Iceland for 3 days as a stop-over with Icelandair on our way to Orlando to go to the boat. The coach dropped us off at the modern youth hostel where we'd booked a double room. Interestingly, the window had a stop built in so that it couldn't be completely closed, and we later found out that Icelanders like to keep their windows open all year round! We hadn't eaten and so we caught a bus into town and asked the driver to tell us when we got there. Strangely, everyone else got off and the bus carried on into the countryside until finally it came to a stop at a bus station in the middle of nowhere. The bus driver got up, looked at us as if to ask what we were still doing on the bus, and then realised that he'd forgotten to tell us where to get off. And so it was that we spent Friday night in Reykjavik sitting on a bus waiting for it to make it's next trip into town.

The following day, we walked to the supermarket to get some breakfast and were shocked by the fact that it was still -5c. The sun was just rising even though it was 10:00, but the ground was covered in ice as we slid our way down the road. That afternoon we braced ourselves, took our swimming things, and paid a trip to the Blue Lagoon which is about 40 mins from Reykjavik. It's a pool of mineral-rich, geothermal water with an eerie blue colour and clouds of steam that pour off its surface. From the changing rooms, you climb down into a pool of water that leads outside into the lagoon which is surrounded by snow and ice. It's a really incredible experience as you swim through the hot water and steam then climb out and walk through the snow to the sauna. Some parts of the lagoon are hotter than others, and occasionally you hear screams of pain as someone wanders into a particularly hot patch.

Iceland is an expensive destination compared to just about anywhere so we were glad to only be staying a few days. Trips out of Reykjavik are one of the big expenses and even travelling by bus is not a cheap way to travel. The following day we rented a car which came with full Icelandic insurance that covered everything apart from damage to the car itself or any other car, and so we set off into the snow covered interior very, very carefully. After about 10 mins of driving, the major roads ended and we found ourselves in the only Nissan Micra heading out of town on a snowy country road as huge four-wheel drive beasts flew past us. The snow was getting deeper and we wondered if this was a sensible trip to be making. We stopped to look at some Icelandic ponies standing in a field in the snow, and tried to take in the incredible snow scene that we were in. Our plan was to drive to Thingvellir, a valley where part of the Atlantic fault breaks through the surface, and then onto Geysir, where all geysirs in the world take the name from. After that we would carry on to Gulfoss to see the spectacular waterfalls there, and then return to Reykjavik. And we planned to do all of this in lots of snow without damaging the rental car!

It was a busy day, and an interesting refresher course on winter driving for me, but the Icelandic landscape was just incredible. The weather was clear and sunny, and we marvelled at the snow and ice formations, the volcanic geography, and the power of the geysirs. Although it took us all day to make the trip, when we got back to our room, we looked at a map and saw that we'd hardly covered any of the country at all. In fact most of the interior of Iceland is uninhabitable and can only be reached by four-wheel drive vehicles in the summer months. It got me thinking that the way to really see Iceland would be to go there in a 4x4 packed with supplies for a summer...

The following evening we flew out of Reykjavik, but en route we flew over Greenland, the skies were clear, and we had an amazing view. We looked down on icebergs floating near the coast, glaciers, and snow clad mountains and decided that we had to go there one day too.

We'd had a very enjoyable flight but came down to earth with a jolt as we arrived at US Immigration. Nina and I both have multi-entry US visas, which we had to sit through interviews to get, so you would think that getting into the States would not be a problem. Not so. We'd been up all night, and now they insisted on grilling us about what we were doing in the US, why we had been there four times in the last three years, etc, etc. I told them that I had a boat there, but they weren't even listening to my answers and told me that it was "suspicious" that I was spending "so much time" in the States. In the end they stamped my passport for six months, told me verbally that I had to leave in three months, and virtually told me not to come back to the US. I looked over to see an elderly woman from our flight, who was obviously on holiday, getting similar treatment and I wondered how the US expects to get ANY tourists if that's how they treat people. In all the travelling that I've done, I've never been treated like that by any country's immigration, and I have no desire to spend any more time in the US than I have to. America is not the golden land that everyone wants to live in... but I'd better stop before the men in the black van pay me a visit!

After customs, we had to go through another security check, which seemed somewhat pointless as we'd just got off a plane and anyone could have walked into the airport through the front door without going through security. We then rented a car and drove the 40 mins or so to where the boat is in Titusville. I'm always nervous coming back to the boat after I've been away from her for a while, and this time was no exception. A hurricane and numerous tropical storms had passed over her while I'd been away and I was anxious to see if everything on board was still ok. We drove into the marina, and I parked behind Zamindar - she looked fine. We then spent almost an hour looking around the boatyard for a ladder as she was out of the water and stands about three metres above ground. Finally, I climbed on board, opened the hatch, and breathed a sigh of relief to see that everything was ok.

Since we arrived, we've been cleaning and getting the boat ready to go back into the water. Taking care of a boat is a never ending job, and we've been held up for the last couple of days by a storm that's been crossing us. Right now there's a force 8 (30-40 knots) blowing outside and we've had tropical downpours all day - not perfect weather for painting. The boatyard is flooded and the boats anchored outside the marina are really getting thrown around in the waves. We're actually sitting here with the central heating up full inside the boat so it's not what you think of as sunny Florida right now!

January 23, 2002

Flying out of the USA

Back in civilisation. It feels great to be back in Britain and I'm currently in Bristol staying with Chris.

Getting out of the US turned out to be more interesting than I'd hoped for. Due to the increased security in Orlando airport we had to queue for an hour for the security check, during which I advised Nina to get rid of the nail files and other offensive weapons that she regularly carries around. As normally happens, however, I was the one who set off the metal detectors and was taken aside for 'special attention'. After further searching, removal of items from my pockets, and managing to convince the security officers that the smell from my shoes was not hidden explosives, but my socks, I was still setting off the alarms and a portable metal detector was put down my trousers. It was then that I dug deep into my pockets and discovered my long lost pocket knife! Unfortunately, they failed to share my happiness with this find, and went off to update my FBI records to 'suspected terrorist'.

January 24, 2002

Going to Copenhagen

Tomorrow I fly to Copenhagen at 18:40 (arriving 21:30) on BA 0820.
Live arrival info from Copenhagen airport is here.

February 26, 2002

Tomorrow morning I have to

Tomorrow morning I have to get up early to catch the coach over to Sweden, and then fly over to Britain. I'm planning to spend the next week in Bristol staying with Chris.

April 30, 2002

As you may have guessed,

As you may have guessed, I'm still in Palma, but I do plan to leave and sail on within the next few days. I've spent most of the last week taking advantage of the fact that I'm in a marina and getting some work done on the boat. When I haven't been working, and I wouldn't try to persuade you that I've been working all the time, I've been enjoying Palma's lovely cafes. It's really a luxury after being in the USA to be able to walk into almost any cafe and know that you'll get a proper coffee and not brown water. Unless of course you look American, however, in which case, aiming to please, the Spanish will give you a cup of brown water. It is for this and many other reasons, that I have therefore been trying to blend into the local community. This is not too difficult as I don't seem to fit into any of the stereotypes of tourist that seem to be in Mallorca right now.

A strange type of tourist appears to holiday here at this time of year. From my studies there seems to be three distinct types. One is families with very young children, who insist, as always, on sitting next to me, screaming into my ear, then being sick. The second are old people, who not only feel the need to wear socks with their shorts and sandals, but like knee length socks in an identical matching colour to their shorts. The idea behind this seems to be that the casual onlooker will at first assume that the man, as it tends to be men, is wearing trousers, but will then see a provocative flash of elderly knee as he walks down the street. To add to this bizarre mix, the third type look like sixty year old, retired, German porn stars. So as long as I don't wear my long socks, then maybe I can fit in.

May 12, 2002

I flew back into Copenhagen

I flew back into Copenhagen yesterday after spending Thursday night in Stansted airport. The last week on the boat was very rough as the Balearics were hit by a storm, hence the lack of any updates.

May 29, 2002

Sleeping in Stansted airport to

Sleeping in Stansted airport to catch my flight to Palma tomorrow. Lots of people are sleeping all over the floor here tonight.

June 3, 2002

I slept fairly well in

I slept fairly well in Stansted the other night, though I was a bit surprised when I woke up in the morning to find a camera crew filming me.

Colin left today after spending the last four days or so here on the boat
and we had a really good time, though I think I need to sober up for a while
now. I drove him to the airport and he checked in for his Easyjet flight
behind Richard Branson, which struck us as a slightly bizarre thing for the owner of a competing airline to be doing.

September 6, 2002

The English in Spain

Planned to finish packing tonight but instead drank the best part of a bottle of Berberana wine and watched a VCD of Charlies Angels I bought from some Triads on the streets of Hong Kong last year. Yesterday I went for a badly needed haircut; I simply said "Corto", but he misunderstood and assumed I was off to join the National Front, hence I now have no hair at all.

I did manage to find a new favourite cafe today, called Cafe Ars (seriously), which has lovely coffee, a good sound system (Bose - you can hear the difference), and a strange maze of passageways that seem to travel underneath all of Mahon before finally getting to the toilets. So I sat there today, and wondered what happens to British people when they go on holiday. Earlier I'd been passed by an English 70 year-old walking around town in only a bra and shorts, the kind of behaviour that would have her taken straight back to the old persons home if she was in Britain, but obviously fine to do if you're in Spain. A cruise ship was in, and the port was full of very fat people who were too big to manage to walk up the stairs into town, and had given up, deciding instead to sit on the stairs and eat ice cream.

On Saturday, I'm flying to Hamburg, en route to Denmark, so of course I now discover that this weekend is the biggest fiesta of the year in Mahon, with 4 days of partying and celebration for the Fiesta de Gracias, or Festival of Joy and Pleasure, the unmissable event of the year. Typical. Vorsprung durch technik.

September 7, 2002

I was given a lift

I was given a lift ashore this morning in the Port Authority rib, which had a lovely 300hp engine, as I'd lifted our dinghy out of the water yesterday. Then, as I had plenty of time, I walked the 6km or so out to the airport.

The party for Festa de Gracias, Mahon's patron saint is in full swing right now. The air force just did an air display above the city, then made a low-level formation fly past the airport. Last night there were fireworks and festivities late into the night in the old town, and the celebrations are set to continue all weekend. I'm sorry I'll miss it.

September 10, 2002

Arrival in Denmark

I got back to Denmark on Sunday, after spending Saturday night in Hamburg then catching the train up to Copenhagen.

October 28, 2002

Returning to Scotland

I've just booked flights to Scotland for next week and I'm hoping to catch up with all the friends I haven't seen for over a year. My flight from London to Glasgow cost a whopping �1.99 plus tax (under �9 total) with Ryanair.

For flight info click below

Continue reading "Returning to Scotland" »

November 4, 2002

Leaving Denmark

Just leaving to go to the airport now. Looking forward to a night in Stansted Airport!

November 6, 2002

Homeless in Stansted

It's always a bit bizarre sleeping in an airport, and now that it's impossible to get to Stansted before the first flights leave in the morning, more and more people are having to do it. Unless you grab a bench by about 9pm, you'll have to sleep on the floor. So I bedded down the other night, surrounded by snoring people, and slept remarkably well through all the flight announcements. By the time I awoke, however, everyone else was up and the airport was full of people in suits walking around me and looking at me like I was a homeless person lying alone on the floor. Next time I'll take a cardboard sign.

Some of the Ryanair planes are beginning to look their age. On the flight up to Scotland the guy in front of me was sitting in a broken seat that kept falling back into the reclined position and the cabin crew kept coming around to tell him to put his seat back up when we were taking off. He tried to explain to one of them that it was broken but the stewardess just replied, "Don't lean on it then!"

November 13, 2002

Denmark

Back in Denmark now and feeling a bit knackered, possibly due to only getting 3 hours sleep in the airport last night, or the fact that I got a typhoid/hepA jab yesterday from Andrew as he sent me on my merry way. The flights over were fairly unexciting, which is the best way, though I almost missed the Ryanair flight from Prestwick as it left 25 minutes ahead of schedule - they put out a final call for me when I was still lost somewhere in the duty free.

December 20, 2002

Christmas plans

On Monday we're going down to the boat in Menorca for two or three weeks. We fly out of Copenhagen, change in Barcelona, and arrive Monday evening and I'm really looking forward to it - I think I've been in Denmark too long.

January 11, 2003

Airline Chaos

Our flight touched down in Copenhagen last night, 24 hours late, and it was a bit of a shock to see the temperature was -7c and there was a foot of snow on the ground after being used to the mild Mediterranean winter of the last few weeks.

I didn't check my email on Thursday and so I didn't see that Spanair had written to tell us that our flight from Barcelona to Copenhagen had been cancelled. When we arrived in Menorca airport the girl at the check-in desk was busy re-scheduling us onto a series of flights through as many European airports as possible when the phone rang and she was told that our morning flight to Barcelona was cancelled also. Two flights cancelled in one day due to 'technical problems' was beginning to sound a bit like there'd been an air disaster. Initially they wanted us to wait five hours for the afternoon flight and then change numerous times before finally getting to Copenhagen late at night, but after a lot of negotiating they agreed to give us a hotel for the night in Menorca, lunch, dinner, breakfast, cover our taxi costs, and book us onto flights the following day. Obviously, I would miss a day in Denmark, but I would just have to live with that.

So we stayed in the Mirador d'es Port hotel, and we could just see the boat from our window while we took advantage of all the luxuries we'd been without while afloat. The dining room had a panoramic view of the harbour, but dinner itself turned out to be a barely edible deep-fried nightmare that must have been cooked on the floor by one of the cleaners, and we fully expected to get food poisoning from it. The chef was obviously working himself again by the following morning, however, as breakfast was a wonderful, huge buffet that we had to drag ourselves away from to get to the airport in time.

We'd also persuaded Spanair to give us an upgrade to business class for our flights from Barcelona, however, upon getting onto the thirty minute flight from Mahon, we realised that they'd upgraded that instead. So rather than getting the advantages of unlimited food, drink and attractive stewardesses all the way to Copenhagen, we were given a sandwich and a glass of water on our way to Barcelona. When we arrived, I went to the Spanair desk and attempted to explain the mistake through a bulletproof glass window, but unfortunately the girl working there was horribly retarded and failed to understand anything that was going on.

We had six hours to kill in Barcelona before our next flight so we took the coach into the city and had a walk around. It was a few years since I'd last been there and although it's an exciting place, it's still suffering badly from too many tourists and the deformed beggars and con-artists attracted by its rich pickings. As we sat inside a cafe I reached into my pocket to pay the bill. Seeing this from the street outside, a gypsy boy rushed in, asked me for money, then left again when he realised I was Scottish.

By the time we boarded the flight to Denmark it felt like it had been a long day. As we'd been given the seats at the very front of tourist class though, we were able to look through the curtains and watch the wonderful meal being served in business class while the black man behind us snorted and tried desperately to cough something up whilst swearing and attacking the back of our seats with his head.

Copenhagen had apparently been hit by some form of ice-age earlier in the week, with temperatures getting down to -23c. The airport had been closed, people had been stranded, and even now there were thousands of unclaimed suitcases stacked up in the baggage hall. It was all a bit unexpected.

January 28, 2003

Ryanair site

I'm flying over to Britain next week and when booking my flight to Glasgow with Ryanair I was filling my address details into the form when I noticed the following on the drop-down list of countries...
...Puerto Rico
Some country
Somewhere else
Spain
Yet another country...
I guess the developers put them there when they were first testing the system and forgot to take them out again.

Click below for my flight details

Continue reading "Ryanair site" »

January 31, 2003

Moving Out

As Nina is going off to Taiwan to study for five months, she's renting out the flat while she's gone. So today we're in the process of moving out, and we're going to be staying with her parents until I fly out to Britain on Wednesday and she goes to Taipei in a week or two. As I can only get a two month visa for Taiwan and I have some other things to take care of in Europe, I'm not flying out with her, but I plan to go over and visit later. So I'm just about to say goodbye to the adsl connection I've enjoyed having while I've been here and get out of the flat as the new resident has turned up and his things are sitting outside the door.

February 4, 2003

Packing

Just getting the last of my things packed for catching my flight tomorrow. I'll probably be travelling for the next seven months or so and it's quite hard to decide what to take as well as trying to keep my luggage as light as possible.

February 6, 2003

Bombing the Dutch

After not getting much sleep the night before, I was looking forward to some rest as I flew out of Copenhagen yesterday. As usual, however, I was surrounded by more screaming children than Michael Jackson. Behind me they fed a young child stinking salami, then it continued to scream and howl so close to me that it felt as if it was inside my head. Its parents had obviously trained it to kick the back of my seat, and it did this simultaneously while it screeched for the entire trip.

Chris was recently telling me about the number of people killed by blue ice, which is basically the toilet waste from aeroplanes which sometimes freezes into a big lump as it drops towards land. When I was cycling in Holland a year or two ago, everyone stopped and laughed at my cycle helmet. I'm not talking about the occasional smirk, I mean, old ladies were falling over laughing in the street pointing at me - I don't know why, it must be a Dutch thing. So as we were now flying over Holland, I decided to take a break from the convulsing child behind me, visit the toilet, and try a little bombing in the form of retaliation. Now they'll wish they were wearing helmets.

February 12, 2003

Our man in Arabia

Colin on a mission
I've been looking into flights to go over to visit Colin who's in Oman at the moment. Air Kuwait have a special offer on right now which includes a free stop-over in Kuwait city, which could be exciting, though I hear the Territorial Army are offering free flights out to the area.

Colin also sent me this map of the world according to the USA.

February 17, 2003

Off to Bristol

Just about to head off to Glasgow airport to catch my flight down to Bristol to stay with Chris for a bit and catch up with Bristol pubs.

February 20, 2003

Tehran Travel

I'm planning to visit Colin in Oman sometime and I've discovered that I can get a ferry from Dubai across the Gulf to Iran, so I'm thinking about making a detour and doing some travelling there. I'm trying to find out about getting an Iranian visa, which doesn't appear to be too easy if you're British or American at the moment for some reason, and can apparently take a month to process. Unfortunately, the website of the Iranian Embassy in London has exceeded it's bandwidth limit and so it's just giving a 509 error "The server is temporarily unable to service your request due to the site owner reaching his/her bandwidth limit." Lovely. It's the same embassy which the SAS famously stormed during a siege in 1980.

March 23, 2003

Off to the Airport

I'm just finishing off packing, sorting some things up online, and leaving here about 06:00 without any sleep to head down to Heathrow. My flight arrives in Dubai about 01:00 the following morning, and though the foreign office is recommending extreme caution to anyone travelling in the UAE, Colin assures me that it's at least 300 miles from the current bombing. Apparently, the land border with Oman is open again, though I have to go to the embassy in Dubai once I arrive to try to get a visa to make the crossing, so fingers crossed.

I'll update this blog as often as possible as I'm travelling over the next couple of months, and hopefully manage to upload some photos, though it all depends on where I can get internet access.

March 25, 2003

Dubai

Chris gave me a lift down into Bristol to catch the coach to Heathrow airport. It was 06:45 on Sunday morning and we were both feeling rough and half-asleep. I stumbled up to the coach driver and tried to buy a ticket, but he refused. I was confused. Apparently, he'd run out of tickets - not seats, there were plenty left on the bus, but his book of tickets was finished. It took quite a bit of persuasion to get him to finally let me onto the coach so that I could get to London and catch my flight. But he did so, and he didn't charge me.

The sky seemed to be clear across all of Europe, and I had a terrific view all the way as we flew over France, the Alps, then past Monaco and over Italy. Eventually, I dozed off and awoke as we flew in over oilfield flames in the Gulf and came in to land in Dubai. Once I'd gone through customs I went to find out what the situation was with the Oman border. The passport information office assured me that the border was open and that it would be no problem getting a visa when I arrived there. I sat down in the airport cafe where everyone was intently watching the BBC World news which was showing a live report from the war in Iraq. Suddenly it all seemed very real and very close.

I managed to grab a few hours sleep on a bench, lying half across my bag, then got up at 06:00 (02:00GMT). The coach to Oman was due to leave at 07:00, so I went off to find the bus station. After a lot of hunting around it turned out to be an unmarked parking space in a back street, which I only managed to find because someone stopped me as I was about to walk past and asked me if I was looking for the coach to Muscat. Hardly anyone else was waiting for it, so I sat down. When it appeared, however, they wouldn't allow me on board as I didn't have an Omani visa. I wasn't having much luck with buses.

I grabbed a taxi and headed to the Oman embassy. I was hoping to get the visa I needed and be back for the coach to Muscat in the evening. The embassy was still closed when I got there as it was only 07:15, but one of the guards pointed me in the direction of a restaurant for breakfast. Around 35% of the population of Dubai are Indian so there's a huge Indian influence in the city. I sat down and ordered what everyone else was having, which turned out to be curry and bread. Afterwards I sat in the shade, out of the morning sun, across from the embassy and waited for it to open. Eventually it did, and in I went and applied for my visa. But after all that effort they just looked at my passport and rejected my application. Two local businessmen whom I'd been talking to also had their applications rejected. Apparently, they'd stopped issuing visas a few days before, and now they weren't giving them to anyone. The situation was supposedly the same at all borders in the Middle East because of the war. Disappointed, I caught a taxi over to the youth hostel and checked in.

The hostel turned out to be one of the most luxurious I'd ever stayed in, similar to a three or four star hotel. There were only two beds to each modern en-suite room and they had satellite tv and a fridge. I grabbed a few hours more sleep before going out to explore Dubai.

Dubai has shops everywhere, selling everything. There's a gold district, a clothes district, a tools district, electronics district, in fact a district for everything. The problem is that if you don't know where you're going, then like me, you end up in the clothes district looking for a flight to Muscat. Allegedly, I could get a visa on arrival at Muscat airport, so although it felt a bit like cheating, this was now my plan. Finally, I found a travel agent. After lots of typing on his computer he came up with a price of 1000 Dirhams, about �200. It was a bit steep so I told him I'd think about it and got up to leave. Then at the last second he said, "You could fly with Kish Air for half the price". This sounded like what I was looking for - a cheap ticket on an unknown Iranian airline. I bought it and couldn't believe my luck.

All that people are talking about here is the war, but still most people seem to be very friendly in Dubai. Strangers talk to you, and cars stop to let you cross the road (before starting again to try to run you down - just joking). I was in a taxi and the driver was talking about the war in Iraq and saying that all people want in the Middle East is peace when he asked, "But where are you from? You could be American or English and here I am telling you this." To which I replied, "No, I'm Scottish. We hate all of them". He paused for a second then exclaimed, "Aah! Scotland! King of the alcoholics!" Obviously, my reputation had preceeded me.

March 26, 2003

Bin Laden Airways

flying kish air
I spent yesterday morning going to see the Burj al-Arab, a huge modern building which is Dubai's most famous landmark and which I later found out was designed by the architects that Colin last worked with. Then I caught a taxi to the airport and checked in for my Bin Laden Airways flight. It was leaving from terminal 2, which seems to be the seedy backdoor of Dubai International. The plane turned out to be an ancient Fokker 50, hidden behind a United Nations jet, and everyone looked anxious as we boarded. I was sitting right next to one of the propellers and we taxied over to the runway past two crashed 737's. Some prayers were said and soon we were in the air. Everyone kept their seat belts fastened all the way as we bounced through the turbulence rising from the mountains below. Soon we were flying over Oman, with it's green irrigated fields surrounded by desert, and finally we landed with relief at Muscat airport. The airfield was full of US Hercules transport planes as they're using it as a base for flying supplies over to Iraq.

Hardly anyone else was getting off the plane in Muscat, so I left them to their fate and walked into the terminal where I filled in a visa application form, had my passport stamped, and was welcomed to Oman by the friendliest immigration official I've ever met. My bag was sitting in the middle of the floor in the baggage claim area on its own so I picked it up and Colin was waiting outside for me. He drove me back to his mum's house, we had a terrific dinner, then we sat drinking locally bought Danish Faxe beer, and Stoli until 4am.

March 28, 2003

Oman Weekends

omani scenery
I didn't realise this but the muslim weekend is on Thursdays and Fridays so Colin and I were out last night in some of the big hotels in town as they're the only place you can buy alcohol in Oman. Being non-muslim, however, we still have a duty to celebrate the normal weekend so we therefore get two weekends a week here.

We caught a taxi which had three young local guys in it, and soon, of course, we were asked about the war. We naturally agreed how terrible it was, and although the Omanis are very friendly, you can detect a heightening of tension out here as Britain and America continue to bomb Iraq. One of the guys in the taxi replied, "Bush and Blair die tomorrow. Saddam is good." We're considering changing our nationalities if things get any worse.

March 29, 2003

Off to Ras al Hadd

Colin and I are going off to Ras al Hadd with the 4wd for the next couple of days and planning to camp down there. In the meantime I've begun to upload some pictures from Oman under Latest Photos.

April 3, 2003

Salalah

We're currently in Salalah, close to the border with Yemen in the south of Oman and have been away from internet access for the last few days. There were a couple of instances of Americans being beaten up by groups of locals in some of the big hotels in Muscat just before we left, including in a bar we'd been in the previous night, though so far the worst we've had has been abuse shouted at us.

April 4, 2003

Southern Oman

I left Colin sitting in a bar last night and went for a walk along the beach here in Salalah. Lots of things about this part of Oman remind me of Brazil, and as I sat on the beach I could see fish jumping in the water and crabs running along the shore. Although it was after midnight the beach was busy with people sitting along it, and waiters from the cafes across the road were bringing drinks down to the people on the sand. The Southern Cross was hanging just above the horizon and the air was full of mist from the heat and the breaking waves.

Colin stumbled into the hotel hours later, having taken one of those shortcuts you only find when you're drunk and ended up crawling through a swamp, being rescued by Indians, and finally covering the 4km back to the hotel in 2.5 hours.

According to the hotel staff some locals came to the hotel asking about us last night, and thinking that we were Americans. Luckily we've been telling people that we're Irish as there's a lot of anti UK & US sentiment around, and though we've no idea what it was about, we're glad to be leaving this evening. We're catching the 'desert express' back to Muscat, which means a 12 hour bus journey cross country with no toilet on board.

April 6, 2003

Ras al Jinz Turtle Beach and Wadi Shab

baby camel
We drove over to Ras al-Jinz turtle beach earlier in the week in the 4wd. On the way there we took the inland road through the desert, past sand dunes and camels where it was 40�c in the shade. Oman has had some of the highest temperatures ever recorder on earth and in the summer 50�c is fairly normal.

We'd taken tents with us so we camped in the nature reserve on the easternmost point of the Arabian peninsula, had a big fire, and drank vodka. Late at night the guides came to the camp and took us down to the beach where up to 13,000 turtles lay their eggs every year. By torchlight we watched as an almost metre long Green turtle dug into the sand to bury it's eggs, and another came ashore out of the surf. It was really fantastic to see, though apparently if we were there in June or July there would be hundreds of turtles laying eggs on the beach every night. We had to be careful so as not to stand on any baby turtles which were running across the sand towards the sea. They're attracted to light and if you shine a torch on the sand then they'll turn around and waddle towards it.

Back at the camping site we threw some more wood onto the fire and sat back looking at the stars. Suddenly I saw something crawling past my foot. It was a baby turtle on a suicide mission towards the fire! We couldn't figure out where it had come from as the beach was about half a mile away, but we picked it up and set off down to the sea to set it free. Dozens of foxes eyes reflected in the torchlight while they scavenged and dug in the sand looking for turtle eggs. We put the baby turtle down next to the surf and it swam out then disappeared into the sea. A tiny percentage make it to adulthood but if they do they can live for 150 to 300 years.

In the morning we had a swim on the beach then set off on our way back towards Muscat, which was 300km away, on tracks along the coast. I did the driving back and it felt really great to be driving off-road again which I hadn't done since I'd had my own four wheel drive years ago. Pretty soon, however, the track became worse and then we came to some kind of petroleum complex which had been built across where the road used to be. We followed the fence around through the desert, spotted an Arabian gazelle, and after a few rough sections came back onto the track.

We had a break in Qalhat, perched on the cliffs, which is now just a poor village, but prior to being razed by the Portugese it was the first capital of Oman and one of the great ancient ports of Arabia. The only remaining ancient structure is the mosque. A little further on we stopped at Wadi Shab, one of the many oasis-like streams that exist in Oman, paid a young boy to take us across it in a boat, and walked upstream through the steep gorge. It was unbelievably lush after being in the desert, full of palm trees, and locals were tending plants and date plots as we made our way up. After an hour or so of walking we stripped off, waded through rockpools, then swam upstream through clear, blue water for five or ten minutes. Colin had been here before years ago and he knew where he was going, which was just as well, as, typically, the Lonely Planet doesn't mention the place at all. There was no-one else around and everything was silent apart from the sounds of birds in the trees. At what appeared to be a solid cliff face, we dived underwater, swam three metres or so, then surfaced in a grotto inside the mountain! It was unbelievable. Light was filtering in through holes in the roof of the cave, and a waterfall tumbled down the rock face. I treaded water to try to take it all in; it was one of the most fantastic places I'd ever been in my life.

The rest of the drive back continued to be fairly exciting, mainly because we were so low on petrol that the car must have been running on fumes. It was getting dark and there were virtually no other cars on the track as we began to see ourselves getting stranded in the desert and eating each other. Amazingly, however, a petrol station appeared just in time, the first we'd seen for 130km. We celebrated, filled up, and sat and had a coffee and shawarma in the forecourt.

April 8, 2003

Jebel Shams

jebel shams
Yesterday we drove up Jebel Shams, which, at 3000m is the highest mountain in Oman and it's 'Grand Canyon'. On the way up, however, we took a wrong turning and ended up at the gate to a military base. We were just turning the 4wd around when suddenly a crazed looking soldier rushed out of a hut with a panicked look on his face and a machine gun, pointed it at us with his finger on the trigger and motioned to us that we should leave immediately or else be shot. Realising that he wasn't going to invite us in for a cup of tea and give us directions, we took the hint and left feeling a little bit shaken.

After a bit more driving on dirt tracks we came to the top where you can look straight down 1km into the huge canyon of Bir Dakhiliyah that splits through the mountain. The view was incredible and we sat on the edge in the cool, thin mountain air marvelling at it. Out of nowhere some women and children appeared. They were Shuwawis, local mountain people who live in isolated villages keeping goats and making carpets. They persuaded us to buy a rug and invited us back to their village to drink coffee. We sat down under a tree on a carpet with an old man, a younger man, six children and some women spinnning wool. They brought out a bowl of Omani dates and a pot and poured us small cups of cardoman flavoured coffee. Goats were wandering around continually trying to join the meal, and the younger man had to repeatedly chase them away. A goat skin was still hanging on the tree drying above us. We finished our coffee, thanked them, and drove back down the mountain.

Flight Cancelled

I'm supposed to be on my way to Bangkok right now, but instead I'm still in Oman. I turned up at the airport this evening and looked up at the departure board to see that my return flight to Dubai with Kish Air had been cancelled. No-one had called to tell me so I went over to the travel agents that dealt with them to find out what was happening. Nobody was working there but I managed to get a telephone number and called one of the agents who basically told me that it was nothing to do with them, which I of course argued with until he finally agreed to come in to discuss it with me. I only had a few hours until my Bangkok flight left from Dubai, so I needed to get there fast. It turned out that there was an Oman Air flight leaving for there in an hour so when the travel agent turned up I did my best to get him to transfer my ticket to Oman Air. After lots of arguing, shouting, and being ready to drag the guy out across his desk, airport security were beginning to pay me a lot of interest and he still wouldn't transfer my flight. I'd gone into the same travel agents office last week to reserve the flight and apparently the guy I'd spoken to had written out my ticket but had never called the airline to make the booking. Hence the airline wasn't liable as they'd never received the booking, and if the travel agents transferred me onto another flight then they'd have to pay for my ticket so they were arguing, lying, and saying anything they could to avoid it. In the end he agreed to book me onto tomorrow night's flight and called Air Brunei and managed to change my ticket to Bangkok to the following night, but it all took over an hour of arguing.

April 9, 2003

Kish, Kish

I'm just about to head off to the airport to attempt to get to Dubai for the second time. We drove across town to Royal Brunei's offices in Ruwi this morning to check that my reservation to Bangkok had in fact been changed as my ticket isn't supposed to allow travel over easter from the 11th April (i.e. when I'm flying). I also have the added problem that my visitor's visa expired yesterday so immigration may give may some hassle for now being an illegal immigrant. When we were driving back, the Sultan's private, shortened jumbo jet was circling overhead, gleaming in the sun. It's been really lovely staying in Oman, especially with Colin as my expert local guide, though it's been getting hotter every day since I arrived. It's so warm now that only hot water comes out of the cold taps and when the wind blows it feels like a hairdryer, so I'm glad I didn't come in midsummer.

April 11, 2003

Suspected SARS on flight

I successfully managed to fly out of Muscat airport this time, where they were playing 'Winter Wonderland' in the departures lounge bizarrely. On the flight I ended up sitting next to a guy fleeing from Iraq (can't mention any names but he did look familiar). As we flew over Dubai, the pilot put the plane into such a steep dive that I felt all the blood leave my legs while he made an announcement in Iranian, which worryingly sounded as if he'd started praying. For some reason an extra passenger had turned up for the flight and he had to stand all the way - the first plane I'd been on with standing room. We landed on the runway and the Iraqi guy next to me started struggling to get out of his seat. He didn't know how to unfasten his seatbelt (which is incredibly funny if you've seen Eddie Izzard's 'Circle'... but, I suppose, not funny at all if you haven't) so I had to give him a demonstration and help.

Due to different Muslim laws the women in Dubai don't have to be covered up, which after two weeks in Oman seemed almost pornographic. The following day I wandered around 'City Centre', one of Dubai's huge shopping malls, being shocked by them, then headed off to the airport to check in. Dubai's famed duty free didn't impress me too much and didn't seem to be very cheap, but the new terminal is very slick; the best part being that the announcements are made by a soft, sexy computerised voice with a slight echo that sounds as if it was taken straight out of Bladerunner. A man fell down the escalator (maybe his first time on one) while I was figuring out what kind of alcohol I could afford to buy with the rest of my UAE change (settled for some Nepalese rum, which was cheaper than a bottle of shampoo). I sat down and a guy sat down beside me with two hunting falcons on a perch. I'd once flown hunting birds in Scotland, but these were beautiful, powerful killing machines in comparison. While talking on his mobile he slipped his sandals off, and began playing with one of them with his toes.

I moved to the departure gate and waited for the flight to come in. There were only a few other passengers boarding from Dubai and eventually the plane landed and all the transit passengers disembarked and joined us in the waiting room. They were all Germans, one of whom stood in front of me wearing a leather waistcoat and talking loudly, opened a big can of Tuborg, and downed a pint in one gulp.

Finally, they announced that boarding could begin, but as they did so the airline staff began to hand out a stack of notices. I took one and read it. Apparently, someone on the flight was suffering from a suspected case of SARS, and due to this we were now all suspect carriers. It asked us to give the airline our individual details so that we could be reached if the person did turn out to have SARS, and said that the destination country would decide what action to take on our arrival. It also instructed us to take our temperature daily for the next ten days and to contact a doctor if it rose. The thought of getting SARS didn't bear thinking about, but worse than that, being rounded up and put into a sealed room with 300 badly dressed Germans was terrifying. The Germans were all standing waiting to board by this time, but I looked at one of the other guys who was joining the plane from Dubai and he looked back at me as if to say, "Shall we wait in the bar for the next flight?" Out of interest I asked one of the Asian staff if we were being given a choice of getting on this plane or not, but he just replied, "You get on plane!", in an imperialistic Japanese kind of way. I boarded, but had a nagging "Cassandra Crossing" feeling in the back of my mind.

We were all a bit conscious of anyone who was coughing on the flight, but I did get some sleep in the end. When the plane landed in Bangkok we were met by airport staff wearing masks and there were signs saying that everyone would have to undergo a medical. Seeing this, some of the Germans around me pulled out their masks and put them on as if this was perfectly normal on arrival in a foreign country. I got a bit lost in the airport after this, but didn't have to undergo a medical or anything unless I somehow missed it. Now I'm off to find someone to shove this thermometer up my bum.

April 13, 2003

Songkran

Half dazed from the flight to Dubai, it was a bit strange to suddenly find myself in Bangkok again, walking down Koh San Road dodging taxis and tuk-tuks. I checked into the same hotel and bizarrely ended up in the same room I'd stayed in when I was last here.

It's Songkran, Thai new year today which means that there are huge waterfights everywhere in the streets - something to do with cleansing out last year's bad spirits and the fact that it's the hottest time of the year. I'd been hoping to make it up to Chiang Mai for the event as they have huge celebrations but all the hotels there are fully booked - I can't see how people could be taking it any more serious than they are in Bangkok though.

I managed to get 10 metres from the hotel yesterday before being soaked! They mix talcum powder with water and smear it onto your face, then drench you with water, which combined with the fact that half the people are carrying around huge water pistols, gives the whole thing a surreal 'Apocalypse Now' feeling as you wander past all the whitened Asian faces. I attempted to get into central Bangkok yesterday, but by the time I arrived I was soaked and looking very white, which gave all the sales girls in the stores lots of amusement. Everyone seems to be a target, with water being thrown from windows and even the army and police being attacked. There are fundamentalist units going around in the back of pick-up trucks, loaded with oil drums of water and soaking people as they drive past. I seriously had myself believe that I wasn't going to go out and buy a water pistol for several hours yesterday, then I finally gave in and went out sniping. It turned out to be a long, crazed night with en masse partying in the streets and it was only when I got up hungover late this afternoon that I discovered that it goes on for five days! Oh dear. Coming down with some water-borne disease seems much more likely than SARS at the moment!

Paul Oakenfold is playing in Narcissus, one of the big clubs here tonight so I'm off to try to get tickets. How I'll manage to arrive there in a decent state to be let in is quite another thing though!

April 15, 2003

The Party Continues

Banglamphu, the backpacker's district of Bangkok seems to have been taken over by partying Thais as most of the westerners are having problems keeping up with the pace of the partying. Songkran has been going on continually for five days and nights now, and I've become completely nocturnal. It's truly a party that deserves to be right up there next to Rio's Carnival. Every day it's been getting bigger and bigger, taking over more and more streets, and becoming wilder all the time. The roads are thick with the white slush of talcum powder and water and even the fire brigade are joining in soaking everyone with their high-pressure hoses.

The whole street around the Democracy Monument has been turned into a huge water and light display with a deep, booming Thai voice shouting across the proceedings. It's a bit like a cross between a Jean Michel Jarre concert and the cult Japanese tv series Monkey.

April 16, 2003

Thai Gangs

I managed to keep partying right through until the end of Songkran early this morning and it was all really incredible. By the early hours, however, most of the revellers had either passed out or gone home and I found myself in the middle of two rival Thai street gangs. Suddenly machetes got drawn and bottles started getting thrown down Koh San Road and I had to dodge for cover. My water pistol didn't seem like adequate self-defence anymore! It didn't last long though as the police were nearby and once they fired a single shot all of the fighting stopped.

April 18, 2003

SARS, Lies and Videotape

SARS doesn't really seem to be a problem in Thailand - either that or the Thais are just too laid back to care. Only the truly paranoid foreigners are going around wearing facemasks so it's lots of fun to go over, ask them directions, then pretend you're about to cough up a lung. As far as I'm concerned it's just another media frenzy that's been blown out of proportion and wearing a mask only serves to make more people anxious.

I'm off to check out Ministry of Sound tonight, or M.O.S. as the locals call it, after having another fairly lazy day wandering around Bangkok.

April 20, 2003

Thai Menus

One of the joys of travelling for me is reading foreign menus that have been translated into English. After a couple of beers last night in a local Thai bar called 'In Ning' I ended up in hysterics trying to choose between these mouth-watering choices...

fried rice with carb
rice with fried poke
rice cook in an oven
spicy soft bone salad
fish fried in three-teste sauce dressing
deep fried chicken knuckle
grapes shake

Colin's just emailed me to say that he's flying over to join me here on Wednesday for next week's Festival of Joy and Pleasure. Looking forward to it.

April 22, 2003

Pantip Plaza

This afternoon was spent in Pantip Plaza, Bangkok's huge electronics and computing shopping centre and one of my favourite haunts. It has hundreds of shops spread over six floors selling hardware, pirate software, and parts, and it takes over two hours just to walk around it all. One of the good things about Thailand is that, unlike in the West where everything is becoming disposable, you can still get things repaired cheaply here. My phone had suffered badly from a wet ride with Kylie when I was back in Britain so I had it rebuilt and the screen replaced yesterday for about ten pounds.

April 23, 2003

Colin Flies In

I met Colin at the ungodly hour of 10am this morning in Bangkok airport. It was the first morning I'd seen since arriving in Thailand and after 3 hours sleep I wasn't feeling my best. It was good, however, to see Colin, and he brought me a new shaver from the Middle East, where they appear to have a special offer running due to the recent fall of the Taliban.

April 24, 2003

Jim Thompson House

After stumbling out of bed sometime this afternoon with a stunning hangover, I took Colin along to see Jim Thompson's house - our tourist destination for the day. It was built by Thompson, an American architect, out of six traditional Thai teak houses in the 1950's, which he joined together to make into one large structure. It's fairly impressive and a great example of traditional Thai architecture. After that, of course, we ended up back in the bars.

April 25, 2003

Thai National Palace

Today we went to see the National Palace then took a ferry across the river to the Temple of the Rising Sun. By the time we got there the sun was setting and we met a friendly local called Peter, who, after showing us around the temple complex, invited us back to his house where we ate local Thai food, met his family, and drank white Thai whisky. Later I brought in my 32nd birthday in a bizarre Thai club dancing to local music until Colin and I decided to head off to somewhere else and got a taxi to Narcissus.

May 5, 2003

Thai Cinema

We went to see a new Thai film (with English subtitles) called Fake the other day. One of the bizarre but lovely things about Thailand is that at the beginning of films they play the national anthem, show pictures of the king, and everyone stands up. The film was a black comedy, the cinematography was fairly impressive, and we'd been to almost all the locations in it which probably means that we've probably been in Bangkok far too long.

May 7, 2003

Visa Hunting

I applied for my Laos visa today as I'm planning to take a trip up to Vientiane at the weekend. When Colin arrived back in Oman all the passengers were taken to a clinic and interrogated in case any of them had SARS. After two weeks of drinking he probably looked more suspect than anyone but amazingly they still let him in.